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Nuttin like a good bath to do a soul good!


Grooming Your Tibetan

Grooming the Tibetan Terrier can either be very easy or very hard depending on the length of it's coat. While puppies, their coat is very easy to care for, which can lead many new to Tibetan owners to believe that all they've heard about how difficult coat care can be to be silly. Puppies don't mat at all until they reach about 9 months old at which time the under coat starts to come in. About the only way most people can tell the undercoat is coming in is because it is the first time they notice a mat.

Up until the time the undercoat begins to come in a bath occasionally is all the work you need to do for your puppies coat. When the undercoat begins to come in you will need to incorporate a routine of brushing on a twice weekly basis to your routine. Most human shampoo and conditioners are just fine for this. Although you may not need to brush your puppy until it's undercoat comes in it is wise to do it earlier so your dog learns this can be a pleasant interaction with you.


  Detailed instruction for caring for ears and pads here



The tools I use :


 A slicker brush                   Millers Designers Series Soft Slicker Brushes  

 A pin brush                         All Systems Oblong Pin Brush w/Wooden Handle  

 A greyhound comb              Master Grooming Premium Greyhound Combs

Nail clippers                         Millers Forge Nail Clipper w/Nail Catcher

 Ear cleaner                          ARC Labs OtiCare-B Drying Ear Creme 2oz

 Ear powder                         Top Performance ProEar Groomers Powder



Brushing  & Bathing


Brushing Correctly

Teaching your Tibetan early in life to lie on it's side on the floor or a grooming table will be a lesson you'll forever be grateful for as you spend more and more time grooming his coat. With your dog lying on it's side you can complete one side, then flip them over and do the other.

Brushing completely through the coat is the only way to get out all the mats and prevent new ones from forming. I use the slicker brush for this. It isn't enough to brush from the part down the body and sides of the dog. You must lift up the hair and brush the underneath as well.

With the dog on it's side, start down by the belly. With one hand lift up the coat above and brush with the other at the skin level, continuing to let down the upper hair a little at a time. In this manner you will get all of the undercoat as well as the top coat.

Use some kind of spray - even if it's just water to mist the coat while brushing it out.  A dry coat will break if brushed dry.


Dealing with Mats

 When you do reach a mat, gently, with your fingers try to separate it until you can pull out just the mat without any of the surrounding hair. If that isn't possible, using a knife or one side of your scissors, cut through the mat. Do not cut from side to side but rather run one blade from up to down through it. You may need to do that a few times before you can pull it gently out with your fingers or brush it out.

This method won't leave you with a gapping hole. Under belly's, under ears and where the legs meet the body will usually be the worst places for mats but if your dog has been taught to lie on it's side these area's can easily be reached.

I give my dogs treats as we go so they are more tolerant knowing the worst will be over soon and in the meantime they are getting goodies for being good. I usually use nickel size pieces of turkey franks. When the hair above their eyes is long enough I usually put it up in little pig tails over the eyes. I find the comb to be easiest to do this job.  A good quality hair conditioner is invaluable through this.

I have found Cowboy Magic to work wonders if I have a large mat I don't want to cut out.   I work it into the mat the night before and many times they come out fairly easily the next day.  


A bath is usually given after brushing out.  The reason is washing will sometimes "set" a mat making it impossible to get out without using scissors.  I will bathe first if a dog is really dirty and brushing will break the coat anyway. 

I always start with the body, leaving the head dry until I am finished with the body completely.  I do this because dogs don't tend to shake as much or at all until their head is wet.   After thoroughly wetting the body, tail, legs and chest I apply shampoo.  I do the body first and then each leg. After the shampoo has been worked in I rinse.   Rinse twice as much as you think you need to.

Next I apply the creme rinse.   I let the water work it into the coat.  Rinse well.  

Then I put a cotton ball in each ear, hold their head back and wet their head well.   I wet the top and ears when holding their head back and then do one side, then the other of the face.  I have a lot less trouble with them that way.  Some people just wet all the face but the dogs panic when the water gets in their nose and start to fight it.   I would too!   I then follow the same process I did with the body.

When they are all done I use a couple of towels to dry them, followed by the hand dryer. 


Voila - Done!




Grooming Tips

Nail Tip

Do you hate doing  your dogs nails?   Try doing them while bathing.  Many dogs that fight it any other time are complacent
about it while in the bathtub.   It also makes it easier to get the hair back when it's wet to see  where you want to clip.

Nail, ears & pads Tip

  If you have a hard time doing your dogs ears, nails or pads it might be the lighting.  I have found if the lighting isn't as good
as I need I am not as confidant about what I am doing.  Think about using a small headlight for these tasks.  You can usually
direct them right where you need that light and you may be surprised when you can see clearly how much you weren't seeing before.

Keep a bag of cotton balls by the tub you bath your dogs in.  Stick on in each ear just before you do their head.  Even if
they shake them right out after your done with their heads you will have prevented a lot of water from going in their ears.

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